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GOTS 2021 Report

The GOTS 2021 report on the progress and impact of the environmental and ethical-social sustainability certification for organic products was recently disclosed, highlighting excellent results and appreciation.

20 years after its birth, the GOTS certification sees a conspicuous increase among the subscribers of the standard, registering + 53% compared to 2021 in our country and thus placing Italy in second place in the world in the ranking of the nations that have mostly adhered to this stringent voluntary standard; ahead of us, Turkey with a growth of 61% compared to 2021.

The appreciation by brands and consumers for products of organic origin (bio) certified GOTS highlights the sensitivity towards not only environmental issues but also the health of producers and workers of the entire fashion sector, who choose materials without GMOs, without highly harmful chemicals (such as formaldehyde or azo dyes), which use reduced water consumption or ensure complete recycling, from the field to the finished product.

We are proud to be part of this large family that every day contributes to the sustainable growth of our country.

Pubblicato

23 February, 2022

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Copia di www.milanounica.it ENG

Raphael is on E-Milano Unica Connect

Thanks to the opportunities offered by e-MilanoUnica Connect, the digital marketplace of Milano Unica, the opportunities for meeting and relating continue online even after the end of the event.

The Milano Unica textile and clothing accessories marketplace integrates and completes the experience of the fair, allowing companies and buyers to keep in touch and develop business continuously and from anywhere.
The Company Page of Raphael is at your disposal within e-MilanoUnica Connect: here you can browse the Digital Catalog, discover the news, carry out in-depth research and contact us directly to request information and samples, make appointments via chat or video call and place orders.

To access e-MilanoUnica Connect, just request your login credentials at this link www.milanounica.it/en

We look forward to seeing you on e-MilanoUnica Connect throughout the season, giving us an appointment at the next edition of Milano Unica.

 

Pubblicato

8 February, 2022

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Première Vision feb. 2022

We are pleased to meet you at our stand 6B4 for show you


our new spring summer 2023 collection.

Published

7 February, 2022

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Milano Unica feb. 2022

We are pleased to meet you at our stand C35 PAV16 for show you

our new spring/summer 2023 collection.

Pubblicato

28 January, 2022

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The “Roses of Atacama” choked by fashion

The driest desert on earth is found in South America, between southern Peru and northern Chile.

Atacama, the place whose annual precipitation does not exceed 2.1mm of rain, is a narrow strip of land, embraced by the Andes, where the constant state of high pressure prevents the formation of clouds.

The strong temperature variations between day and night (from 40 degrees during the day to 5 degrees at night) and reliefs with an altitude of about 2000 meters, make Atacama a unique desert in the world; the uniqueness of this geographical area is accentuated, every six / seven years, by a carpet of purple and white flowers, which extends over a very large surface, and lasts for about three months (September-December). El Nino, in fact, the wind that blows on the Andean territory, brings the little rain necessary for the flowering of the "Roses of Atacama" that make this place the "flowered desert".

The blooming of the desert, now reduced to leopard spots, less persistent and increasingly rare, is threatened not only by climate change, but also by the environmental cost of fashion. The Atacama Desert, so arid and so little like living conditions human, it has in fact become the largest open-air waste dump in the fashion world; waste which, for Italy alone, represents approximately 240,000 tons equal to 36 million euros.

It is estimated, in fact, on a European basis, that the consumption of clothes, accessories and textile products is around 10 kg per capita; with a targeted collection, almost 5 kg per capita per year of textile waste could be recovered, instead of sending it to the other side of the world and making garbage such a rare and spectacular environmental heritage. Furthermore, 1 kg of used clothing reduces carbon dioxide emissions by 3.6 kg, water consumption by 6,000 liters, 0.3 kg of fertilizers and 0.2 kg of pesticides.

To reduce the environmental impact of our waste, however, it is necessary to set up a coherent supply chain from separate collection to sorting (selection of garments by fibrous type, separation of accessories such as buttons, buckles), from fraying of fabrics to subsequent operations necessary to reduce materials. post-consumer in fibers or re-spun polymers.

Let us remember that the textile fraction of our domestic and non-domestic waste can be differentiated: CONAU, the National Consortium of Used Clothes, collects discarded clothes for recycling, a practice that is still little known and little publicized in Italy (the percentage of clothes collected in Italy is 0.22%) but which will become mandatory by 2050.

In the Atacama Desert, the gigantic sculpture of the Chilean artist Mario Irarrázabal emerges, a human hand expressing a desperate, unheard call for help. When we discard an item of clothing, let's take the time to dispose of it correctly, let's find out about the methods and collection points (whether for recycling or humanitarian aid): our superficial choice can create important consequences thousands of kilometers from us .

Pubblicato

19 November, 2021

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Merinos, Alpacas and shearing breeds

Up to the beginning of the last century, Italy was an important producer of textile fibers, especially wool, quantitatively so important as to characterize the economy of various pre-unification states. From the late Middle Ages onwards we can imagine the roads of Italy crossed by millions of transhumant sheep that moved from the mountain areas, where the flocks spent the warm periods of the year, to the flat areas, where the cold seasons instead spent.

A whole network of streets already existed from pre-Roman times and an absolutely specific economic and pastoral life was developed around these streets. The Grand Duchy of Tuscany, the Papal State and the then Kingdom of the Two Sicilies had created special Customs to collect the taxes that derived from this movement. There were also specific regulations, including transnational ones, which governed the rules of custody and management of pastures according to criteria established for millennia.

Since the mid-nineteenth century, with the progressive liberalization of the world wool market, this pastoral system has progressively disappeared and now breeds such as the Gentile di Puglia or the Sopravissana, which at the time had millions of animals, are reduced to a few thousand. of garments.

Simultaneously with the disappearance of this production system, interest in research in the field of textile fiber producing animals also disappears in Italy.

The turnaround began about twenty years ago. Since the beginning of the 90s, ENEA has organized a group of advanced Agrobiotechnologies which has the task of creating innovation as part of an alternative proposal strategy to traditional agricultural systems, in particular its research diversification policy. in agriculture and livestock. The idea arises from the need to create an alternative to traditional extensive livestock practices aimed at the production of milk and meat, through the recovery of abandoned and marginal agricultural areas. The project aims to recreate a production chain that is based exclusively on fiber animals capable of providing a supplementary income to the traditional agricultural enterprise, through systems characterized by low cost of labor. The breeding system is now widely consolidated, and careful genetic management has made it possible to avoid dangerous increases in inbreeding and the production of animals has progressively increased. The breeding of the Angora goat, despite being very specialized, through ENEA experience has allowed us to demonstrate to new and old breeders the zootechnical and economic feasibility of a system that has been abandoned for a long time. With the "ARINCO" project, in 1995, the Alpacas arrived, thanks to a demonstration project on the introduction in Italy of alpacas and Angora goats in the Umbrian territory, funded by the European Commission. For this reason, the Italian alpacas will become, after the Australian and New Zealand ones, the first in the world to be endowed with a genetic index that certifies their quality.

Parallel to the ARINCO Project, the Marche Region finances the “Sopravissana e derivate” Project, aimed at the recovery of the Sopravissana breed also through the creation of new genetic types. In this case, thanks to the crossing between black and brown New Zealand Merino rams and white Sopravissane sheep, two natural colored genetic lines are created, one black and one brown line.

The naturally colored wools in the project were particularly appreciated and, processed with a view to the supply chain, produced interesting added values ​​for the producing farm. In addition, their average fineness, around 20 microns, which is being further improved, has also found the interest of the traditional Italian textile industry, thus allowing the creation of a line of naturally colored 100% Italian wool ecological fabrics.

The project also made it possible to recover the more traditional dyeing plants grown in Central Italy and to fine-tune the cultivation and extraction techniques and favored the development of a highly valuable private business, currently linked to important groups. industrial.

All the experiences of introducing fiber animals have clashed with the difficulty of managing the product from the harvesting phase to that of the yarn and the manufactured product, as there is no longer a well-organized supply chain in many parts of Italy, especially for medium-sized productions. and small quantity. To overcome this inconvenience and to allow breeders to increase the added value of the product, passing from the sale of raw fiber to that of yarn and / or manufactured goods, the University of Camerino and ENEA have created an International Consortium for the research and technology transfer of fibers (Arianne Consortium). The Consortium was able to offer itself as a promoter of national and international research and territorial development projects, being able to provide the initiatives with experiences capable of covering the entire textile supply chain.

(Adapted from Sustainability-lab)

Pubblicato

12 November, 2021

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Upcycling

The common thread that connects the need to achieve the global goals of reducing human impact to the world of fashion, dotted with numerous brands and related collections, is the use of recycled fibers.

The art of recycling, in a sector that always has a desire for novelty and change, is not only applied by re-proposing the same garment also for different occasions, but above all by using the circular economy, or the regeneration of the raw material (in this case, textile fibers).

The material whose recycling is most desirable is cotton: its production, in fact, costs the environment a lot, in terms of land occupation (otherwise destined for grazing or cultivation of food species), use of water resources, fertilizers and pesticides (with the exception of organic cotton, which is still scarcely cultivated), and, last but not least, the commitment of labor that often, in the poorest areas of the world where the cotton fields are located, is forced to unhealthy working conditions and ethically unsustainable.

Creating a good cotton fabric, be it from regenerated or virgin fiber, allows not only the durability of the garment, but also the possibility of re-entering the virtuous circle of recycling, as a raw material: in fact, recycled cotton can also be used for padding . However, this method of recycling, now known as down-cycling, does not do justice to the quality of the original fiber.

The recycling that allows re-ennobling the textile fibers is called upcycling, and is a process that guarantees the recycled material to maintain the same characteristics as the original. This transformation method is now an imperative for the textile industry, since European directives require the management, by 2022, of the textile fraction of urban waste. Carrying out upcycling, in the fashion sector, involves, for example, selecting fabrics by composition and subsequently by color, in order to minimize the use of chemical dyes for the subsequent dyeing phase (which also uses considerable quantities of water): if we think, for example, of how many clothes "inhabit" our wardrobe, we realize that about 80% of them have not been used more than once, or that the right occasion to show off has never occurred that garment that we liked so much.

Post-consumer upcycling aims precisely at recovering fabrics from already used clothes, in more or less good conditions, to give life to new yarns and trendy garments; but there is also pre-consumer upcycling, or the use of fabric scraps (be it a leftover in the packaging of a garment or weaving) to be frayed to create new yarn, having the same qualities as the original one.

In Japanese culture, there is a term, mottainai, which means "regret for a waste": upcycling allows you to recover clothes (and objects) that would otherwise have been thrown away and revive them in a different way to make them last longer. In this way, fabrics once again become a lasting asset, which accompanies us for years, to be passed on to future generations, together with its history.

Pubblicato

4 November, 2021

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Made in Italy, sustainable and safe fabrics

Ssustainable fashion is not only synonymous with respect for the environment and essential ethical-social creations, but also with respect for the health of man, child or adult, the final consumer of the fabric we produce.

Collaborating with Tessile e Salute, and therefore also with the Italian Ministry of Health, means meeting and sharing the ecotoxicological safety requirements set out in the Guidelines created together with the National Chamber of Fashion. The use of chemical products, in the textile sector, is essential for some processes, and in recent years scientific-technological research has developed products that are gradually safer not only for the environment but also for humans.

Raphael, a certified Tessile e Salute company, monitors the entire production chain, both to ensure the choice of more sustainable chemical products, and to monitor their use, implementing a Chemical Management protocol that includes research, both in yarns and fabrics. , of chemicals harmful to health.

The Chemical Manager plays a particularly important role within the company, to ensure the satisfaction of customer requests without forgetting the need to use safe and non-toxic chemical products: sample surveys on raw materials and finished products are in fact part of an accurate and continuously updated risk assessment plan, in order to promptly intervene in the event of a positive analytical data.

Raphael, made in Italy fabrics, sustainable, safe.

Pubblicato

24 September, 2021

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SolarEdge

Sunny…yellow!

Raphael has transformed the company into an energetically sustainable place for many years now. Thanks to the collaboration with SolarEdge, provider of power optimizers, solar inverters and monitoring systems for photovoltaic arrays, the company is able to make the most of solar energy, even on rainy days, typical of the green Valsessera.

Guaranteeing the sustainability of textile products does not only mean selecting certified suppliers and preparing collections in line with international standards, but also combining this need with cutting-edge technologies in the management of energy consumption and environmental impact.

The potential of an environmentally friendly fashion is very high, let's appreciate it for us ... and for future generations!

Pubblicato

17 September, 2021

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Paris fabric show – sept. 2021

We are pleased to meet you from 13 to 15 September, to present you our latest news and trends, at the Galeries Joseph, in the heart of the Marais district, in the center of Paris, in a unique and welcoming location.

Pubblicato

10 September, 2021

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Raphael S.r.l. - Via Noveis, 19 Pray (BI) 13867 Italia Tel. +39 015 767996 Fax. +39 015 767997 - PIVA 00208850024

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